![]() ![]() ![]() And while we’re at it, let’s say a quiet prayer as we mercifully close the books on one eventful, star-crossed dining year and open the first pages of 2018, for the end of boorish behavior in kitchens and dining rooms everywhere and the beginnings of a kinder, more equitable, more truly hospitable restaurant era. In accordance with what has now become settled New Year’s custom, we’ve also compiled the usual collection of random, highly subjective listicles laying out our favorite new restaurants of the past year and all of the foibles and trends in this mannered, reliably snooty, fashion-conscious world that are driving your increasingly dyspeptic critic slowly insane. Where does one obtain the finest selection of Middle Eastern dumplings in the Greater New York City dining universe, or a New Age version of that Victorian breakfast specialty kedgeree? Is it actually possible, in this increasingly stratified dining era, to get your monthly sushi fix for a reasonable price? We endeavor to answer these ageless questions for you, too, along with many, many more, including where to experience the finest example of “flame forward” cooking, which is suddenly all the rage in certain adventurous kitchens out in Brooklyn, and where to go in Flushing, or down in Chinatown, for the perfect platter of kung pao chicken, or Peking duck. In the city’s ever-expanding beefsteak circles, this has been another bumper year for burgers, Korean barbecue, and that timeless fat-cat delicacy thick-cut prime rib, and in the realm of drinks and spirits, New York’s barkeeps, bless their souls, keep coming up with ever-more-ingenious ways to get seriously blotto in the alarming Age of Donald Trump. Elsewhere around town, venerable dining establishments are receiving all sorts of wild and modish makeovers, breakfast has suddenly become the new “It” meal among even the most ambitious superstar chefs, and inspired little establishments serving specialties from far-off places like Tel Aviv, Hanoi, and even Yunnan, China, have been popping up at a dizzying clip. The answer, as always in the roiling, ever-evolving cosmos of New York dining, is everywhere, including that perpetually challenged, overpriced region known as midtown, which lately has undergone a renaissance, replete with freshly renovated seafood palaces, futuristic cocktail bars, and even a new upscale destination taco joint. “Where should I be eating these days?!” is the question your humble critic always hears this time of year, echoing incessantly from colleagues and family members and even from dimly known acquaintances, as I stagger down the windswept avenues on the way to my next meal. ![]()
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